Restaurant Review: Palomino- Galloping Good Food

It seems like Mission Bay is starting to come together- students are finally moving into their on-campus apartments, the fabulous community center is now open, showcasing the impressive Bakar Fitness and Recreation Center, research labs are burning the midnight oil. So it should not be surprising that the surrounding neighborhood offers tons of places to eat. Lucky and I decided to wander down to Palomino to sample what ‘that side of the bay’ had to offer.

Located off the Embarcadero, which affords a grand view of the Bay Bridge, Palomino is an upscale Italian restaurant with chic ambiance and a menu filled with tempting choices. The warm maroon colored walls are contrasted by track lights spotlighting tasteful collections of large hand blown glass bowls. Rich wood trim and starched tablecloths gave the restaurant a stylish character, but both the clientele and the staff kept the place from being pretentious. The patrons ranged from laughing families with children to quiet couples sharing a romantic dinner. Somehow they coexisted without impinging on their neighbors’ atmosphere. The wait staff was professional and approachable, even offering their favorites as well as what they thought should be taken off the menu (one suggested that the oysters were sorely lackluster). Judging by its charm, one probably would not have guessed that it is actually a chain restaurant. At first I couldn’t quite place it- the logo of the red horse looked so familiar, but I could not remember ever eating at this particular restaurant. It was while browsing the menu while waiting to be seated when I remembered the wonderful Roma-style paper thin crust pizzas on which I used to lunch at the La Jolla Palomino.

We had not expected a fifteen minute wait on a Sunday evening, so we were thankful for the French bread they provided while we waited for our meal. Served with the warm, chewy bread is a hearty marinara with chunks of chunks of fresh tomatoes and mozzarella cheese. We were working on our first helping of bread while we decided what to order. The appetizers all sounded delectable; unfortunately our budget (and our appetites) allowed us only one appetizer and our entrees. I narrowed it down to three and let Lucky make the difficult final decision: Dungeness crab cakes seared and served with pesto beurre blanc and roasted red peppers ($9.50); crispy risotto croquette with Italian sausage, mozzarella and marinara ($7.50); and Dungeness crab and artichoke dip with parmesan cheese, served with cracked pizza crust ($13.50). After having to listen to me praise their pizzas for 15 minutes in the lobby, Lucky picked a Roma tomato and basil pizza with shaved garlic, extra virgin olive oil, marinara, and mozzarella ($9.95). I, on the other hand, decided that I should try something else, since I already knew that I would be eating some of Lucky’s pizza. My indecisiveness usually means that I have to study the menu for a good five minutes. But the extensive menu, combined with the delicious descriptions required at least ten minutes. After much drooling, I narrowed it down to three. From the poultry section, I picked out the grilled apricot cilantro chicken $16.50). From the seafood section, I chose the famous paella, made with Manila clams, Penn Cove mussels, fresh fish, chicken, chorizo, and Spanish saffron rice. From the pasta section, I was eyeing (and ultimately chose) the fettuccine with their signature rotisserie salmon, asparagus, diced tomatoes, and scallions in a garlic butter and scotch cream sauce ($17.95).

The crab and artichoke dip arrived while I was working through the second round of bread. The dip was decadently rich, with a generous number of sizable pieces of crab. It complemented the crispy cracked pizza crust, which was piping hot from the oven. Not long after we cleaned every last speck of dip off the plate, the entrees were served. Lucky’s pizza was just as I remembered- large, thin, and well-covered. The thin crust was rigid enough to hold up on its own, but it was light, as if the toppings were resting on air. Together, we were able to finish off a little over half the pizza. We probably would have been able to finish off the whole pizza if not for the appetizer and bread, but still it was a good size. The pasta came in an oversize plate, making the pasta serving look deceptive small. The noodles, which were of a perfect al dente firmness, were swimming in a delicious sauce and topped with fresh pieces of asparagus. The sauce was so creamy, licking my lips was as useless as old, worn out windshield wipers trying to clean a dirty windshield. The moist rotisserie salmon, cut into bite sized pieces, had a light smoky taste that completed the dish. We were stuffed by the end of dinner, at which point the waiter returned to ask us if we wanted to look at a dessert menu. “It would be pretty pointless,” I responded out of breath. It was a shame, though, since they did have a great selection of desserts including pear bread pudding, vanilla crème brulee, and a chocolate torte.

Whether you are in the mood for dinner or just drinks, Palomino is a place for a nice night out. They offer an extensive wine list, great food, a wonderful ambiance, and free three hour parking validation in addition to a great bar and patio area for cocktails and happy hour. Palomino is not an inexpensive restaurant, but if you are in the Mission Bay area or live there, stop in.

Palomino- Restaurant, Rotisserie, Bar

345 Spear Street
San Francisco, CA 94105
(415) 512-7400