Restaurant Review: Esperpento- Oh Yeah, Tapas That

The first time I experienced tapas was during a trip to Malaga, a southern seaside town in Spain. Depending on how you look at it, that could be a good thing or a bad thing. On one hand, I had the opportunity to try some of the best damned tapas in the world. After all, tapas reportedly originated in the southern province of Andalusia in the 19^th century. I remember walking along the boardwalk, going from one chiringuito (beachside restaurant) to the next, ordering one dish here, another there. So I always jump at the opportunity for tapas. The only problem is that they often fall short of expectations.

Some people might be wondering what tapas are. I would say they are Spain’s version of dim sum. Rather than order an appetizer, a salad, and an entrée, one would order a variety of small plates, or tapas, to share among the party. The problem with tapas is because there is such a huge variety, it is difficult to decide what to choose. With that, I have listed a small sampling of some of the many dishes available at a tapas bar.

Patatas Bravas- a dish of browned potatoes covered with a spicy piquant sauce made with paprika, chili and cumin.

Papas Alioli- potatoes, typically broiled or fried, served with a white garlic mayonaise sauce. The raw garlic usually makes this dish a bit spicy and pungent.

Tortilla de Patata- a cross between a potato cake (not in the sense of a birthday cake; rather in the sense of having a potato base) and an omelet, served cold

Gamba Ajillo - Shrimp with olive oil, garlic, and chili powder, baked in an oven in a Spanish earthenware cazuela pot.

Almeja Plancha – Clams in the shell served in a tomato based broth.

Calamar Frito - Fried calamari. It’s basically the same as what you would find in an Italian restaurant’s appetizer section.

Chorizo – Spanish sausage, typically having less fat and being more finely ground than Mexican chorizo. It is often hard and spicy.

Conejo a la cazuela- Rabbit stewed with carrots and potatoes, again using the cazuela pot. The meat is a bit gamey, but not as much as lamb. While it is a leaner meat, it is not dry or tough when prepared well.

Manchego – Semi-firm Spanish cheese with a golden texture. It is aged for at least 3 months, giving it a pungent flavor in a class similar to bleu cheese.

Gazpacho - A cold, mildly spicy broth of pureed tomatoes containing vegetables like cucumber, peppers, celery and onions. If salsa were made into a soup, this would be close.

Sangria - Red wine and brandy sweetened with sugar and infused with a variety of fruits (usually apples, pears, and oranges). A delicious way to wash down your meal.

Esperpento in the Mission District offers these dishes and many more. This restaurant comes closer than most other tapas bars that I’ve tried in satisfaction and authenticity. The atmosphere is lively and the mood is festive. Although it is a bi-level restaurant, it is a very popular and reservations are strongly advised. In order to try as many dishes as possible, go in a big group. Portions are decent, with each dish ranging from 4 to 6 dollars. A group of 8 can easily polish off 10 to 15 tapas. A jar of sangria will fill 4 glasses and costs $16. It isn’t inexpensive, so be prepared to spend 15 to 25 dollars a person.

Esperpento

3295 22^nd St. San Francisco, CA 94110