Saturday, December 15, 2007

Restaurant Review: Dottie's True Blue Cafe- Dottie's Won't Leave You Feeling Blue

Lucky herself admitted that occasionally she’ll give false directions just because she wanted to feel helpful, even if it gets someone even more lost. So when she replied that we were headed in the right direction, I was a little more than skeptical. We had just passed O’Farrell’s Adult Entertainment, at least 5 liquor stores, and dozens of shops that were barred up for the morning. We finally reached the intersection of Jones and O’Farrell and saw what might possibly be Dottie’s True Blue Cafe.
“You think those people are waiting for Dottie’s?” I asked. From behind us came a voice, “Yeah, that place is goooooood. The line’s about a 30 minute wait, but it’s worth it.” I turned and saw a man dressed in a beanie and sweats, most likely one of the locals around the neighborhood. He was hustling for a couple bucks, but at least he was helpful and friendly. Lucky took out a few bucks and we thanked the man for his help. We had a couple hours to spare and no other places to eat, so we took our place in line.

Dottie’s is something of an oasis in the middle of the concrete dessert of the Tenderloin district, known more for its bars than it’s breakfast spots. Had it not been for the line of people out the door, there would have been nothing to distinguish this from the rest of the rest of the unimpressive block. But the warm cozy atmosphere, friendly wait staff, and delicious food made this crowded little spot a homey place. The walls are decorated with pictures of famous African-American entertainers Dorothy Dandridge and Josephine Baker, clad in a barely-there pearl outfit. In the background, barely audible over the whir of polite conversation, plays the music of artists like Ray Charles and Billie Holliday. Most were seated at one of the fifteen or so tables accompanying two to four, but there was also a counter seating five to six comfortably.

My mouth watered as I read over the entrees offered. Both breakfast and lunch were served, but by the looks of most tables, breakfast was the meal of choice. It wasn’t hard to see why: How could you pass up fresh baked pastries, fresh squeezed juice, pancakes- all the things that make up a breakfast of champions. In addition to the breakfast offerings on the menu, there were about a dozen daily specials written on a dry erase board. Lucky, in fact, decided on the Blueberry Cornmeal Pancakes with Pure Maple Syrup ($8.25) from the board. The pancakes were quite moist, and the fresh blueberries baked into them were still quite juicy and flavorful, making the addition of maple syrup almost unnecessary. The bacon that was ordered as a side had a robust smoked wood flavor, but it was overdone and too stiff.

I was torn between two items on the menu. There was The Open Road ($10.75), consisting of fresh-squeezed juice, two eggs done to your liking, your choice of pancakes or French toast, home potatoes, and either sausage, bacon, or ham. And then there was The Southwestern- andouille sausage, mushrooms, onions, peppers, jack cheese over an open faced omelet served with a side of home potatoes and tortillas. Aye caramba! The huge portion that came out did not disappoint. All the flavors of the different ingredients did not overpower the others, including the sausage. The eggs were not overcooked or runny, and the distribution of cheese was such that every bite was even.

Dottie’s neighborhood may be seedy, but it’s worth the trip. Go for their breakfasts ($6 to 10) and bring home some fresh pastries with you for later.

Dottie’s True Blue Café

522 Jones St.

SF, CA 94102

(415) 805-2767

Open 7 days a week from 7:30am to 3:30pm

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