Restaurant Review: J's Pots of Soul- Better Than Homecooking

My pal Lucky loves fried chicken, and I love my pal Lucky. So any time either of us comes across a restaurant that serves that devilishly delicious entrée, we have to go there. A few weeks ago, we stumbled across J’s Pots of Soul. Unfortunately we were in the middle of a swarm of midterms, so J’s had to hang on our wall of places to try until just recently.

J’s Pots of Soul is a homely little restaurant: The exterior is wholly unremarkable, except for the obviously homemade sign with the moniker beside a steaming pot over an open flame. The interior is equally unpretentious yet comforting. About 10 tables are spread throughout a room decorated with a variety of posters and pictures. One poster of a dancing Josephine Baker stares across the room at a dancing Mohammed Ali in the boxing ring. Pictures of the owner are hanging beside paintings of figures in colorful African garbs. The table in the middle of the restaurant holds a mix of periodicals including the SF Chronicle and National Geographic. Some of the solo customers pick up a section and read as they eat their meal. It’s the kind of place that feels like a lazy Sunday even if it is a busy Monday after a long holiday. We needed only a minute to look over the menu before our amiable waitress, who also happens to be the owner, took our order. Lucky had fried chicken wings ($9.25) written all over her face and drooling down her chin. I was in a breakfast mood, which fortunately was served ‘all day’ (all day for J’s Pots of Soul is Tuesday through Sunday, 11am to 2:30pm… what enviable hours!). I decided on the Morning Pot #1- two sausage patties, two strips of bacon, homefried potatoes, two pancakes, eggs any way, and a piece of honeydew melon ($9.45).

We sat and chatted as Marvin Gaye serenade us over the sound of chicken frying in the kitchen. We eagerly anticipated our food’s arrival, but the environment was so relaxed that we didn’t mind taking this time to depressurize from the day’s stresses. Long gone were the midterms, notes, and meetings. It was quality time, just Lucky and me enjoying one another’s company.

Our mouths stopped and our eyes widened when our waitress brought out our huge plates. Five golden fried chicken wings sat beside sides of candied yams and vegetables. Lucky ripped the wings apart, exposing moist, piping hot white meat underneath a thin, crunchy batter. Not too greasy and not too salty, the meat was even better with a little Crystal Louisiana hot sauce. The tender meat peeled right off the bone in strips. Sometimes candied yams are too mushy, other times they are too sweet. But these were just right, with a hint of cinnamon in the butter with which the yams were coated. The garlicky broccoli and carrots provided a tasty counterpoint to the sweetness of the yams. Perhaps the only point of contention was the corn bread. Flecked with red peppers, it gave a zesty kick. However, the bread was a bit too dry for our liking.

I was having quite a time with my own plate. I have become accustomed to tough, scrawny bacon and dinky sausages at cafes. But these pieces of thick cut bacon were quite considerable. They we surprisingly lean and crispy without being overly dry. The sausage patties were equally well done. With a hint of maple sweetness and a touch of smoky flavor, the patties were tasty without being too oily or heavy. The homefried potatoes were served with red bell peppers and onions and served as the staple of my meal. I ordered my eggs scrambled, which came out dense, moist and deliciously buttery. There was so much food that the two plate size pancakes, sprinkled with powdered sugar and slices of bananas, had to be served on a separate plate. I may have finished half the pancakes before I had to throw in the towel. The piece of honeydew was more to make me feel as though I had something healthy to balance out the gluttony of cholesterol, fat, and salt equivalent to the average person’s recommended weekly intake. No, this meal is not for the faint of heart.

J’s Pots of Soul serves up food paralleled by the atmosphere- it’s not inventive, different or creative, but it’s simple, classic homecookin’. So why go out when you can get homecookin’ at home? If I could cook like this, I wouldn’t need to go out.

J’s Pots of Soul

203 Octavia

San Francisco 94102

415-861-3230

Note* Cash only

4 stars out of 5

Restaurant Review: Pomelo- Eating Around the World in 80 Minutes

Although Pomelo may be the smallest restaurant I’ve ever seen, the taste delivered by this Lilliputian is gargantuan in comparison. The tiny space with a maximum capacity of just 18 people, 3 of which work at the restaurant, lets strangers get intimate in a space smaller than a San Francisco living room. Contrasting the physical constraints of the space is the menu, which packs an international assortment of dishes hailing from various continents. Each dish, or destination as they are called on the menu, and “side trip” is named after a city by which the dish is inspired. You’ll be inspired to visit multiple times to try imaginative and interesting entrees from the seasonally changing menu.

As you enter the front door beneath the giant green pomelo, you have the option to sit at either the counter facing the kitchen, the counter against the front window facing the street, or one of two tables against the wall. Be forewarned: the place can fill up at a moment’s notice and is often filled during the lunch time and dinner time rushes. Furthermore, parties of two or maybe three are optimal; anything larger may be close to impossible to accommodate. The atmosphere is quite cozy, thanks in part to close quarters as well as the warm yet vibrant Latin American music (think Bossa Nova) permeating the place. The pieces of art hanging on the wall are relatively invisible since most are entranced by the chef making the fire dance in the open kitchen as he crafts your meal.

While most of the meals are labeled as comfort foods from different countries, they are rather foreign and exotic to the common customer. For instance, the “destination” Manila is a common dish for Filipinos known as pancit bihon, a rice noodle dish spilling with prawns, chicken, Chinese sausage, vegetables, topped with scallions and garnished with a lemon wedge to add to your desired level of sourness ($9). Another dish entitled Solo for the Indonesian city is a tasty dish actually called soto ayam. This chicken soup served with rice noodles, bean sprouts, tomato, ginger, kaffir lime leaves, lemongrass, cilantro, a hard boiled egg and homefried potato chips may catch the attention of most, but would probably be as common to an Indonesian as fried chicken is to us. I’ve been fortunate to have had this dish made by Indonesian friends- while this dish fell a little short and the chicken was a little overdone, it was still a very enjoyable dish bursting with different flavors. It is not merely coincidence that the two dishes mentioned above feature fresh noodles. Nor is it a coincidence that they both came from Pacific Island countries. In fact, six of the eleven are from the Pacific Islands or Asia and six of the eleven have noodles in different forms.

“From where do the other five dishes originate, and what are they like?” you may be wondering. Some are from Europe while the others are from South and Central America. Part of the fun is guessing the destination city’s country of origin and then realizing how it influences the dish. Can you guess where Ayacucho or Muravera are? You might be able to tell from the menu. The Havana is a no-brainer. And as far as if you should order it, it’s a no-brainer, too. Cuban style fried rice with black beans, plantains, chipotles, ginger, and cilantro with a perfectly grilled skirt steak and sautéed onions was perhaps one of my favorite dishes there ($13). I guess I should add that I have yet to try all the dishes and that this dish actually started off as my pal Lucky’s meal before I got to it. As for the name Pomelo, I doubt that it’s the name of a city. But why is it the name of the restaurant considering the fruit pomelo does not appear in any of the meals?

The Pomelo on Judah is perfect for small groups of two, maybe three, who want something different and may not be able to decide on a certain kind of cuisine. You can get Peruvian (try the Callao- a quinoa salad with baby arugula, fennel, golden beets and feta, topped with herb marinated grilled chicken breast for $11) while your pal gets Japanese (the Otsu features cold buckwheat noodle with cucumber, scallions, cilantro, and a spicy soy, ginger and sesame dressing, topped with pan fried tofu for $8). The food may not always be 100% authentic, but it is a great little place with delicious food. If you have a bigger group and/or want to go for weekend brunch, try the Pomelo in Noe Valley.

Pomelo on Judah

92 Judah St.

San Francisco 94122

(415)731-6175

Pomelo on Church

1793 Church St.

San Francisco 94131

(415)285-2257

Restaurant Review: Pizza Orgasmica- Was It Good for You?

The first time I heard about Pizza Orgasmica, a situation similar to the diner scene from When Harry Met Sally instantly popped into my head. I imagined a dining room full of customers moaning and screaming with delight as they stuffed themselves with pizzas, pastas, and beer. Nearly a year had passed and I had forgotten about the place with such an original name, until I saw the flyer for it. I gave in to my curiosity and craving for pizza pie and dialed the delivery number.

I was nervous since this was the first time I had ever called for service, but the voice on the other line was gentle, saying she would fulfill my wildest pizza fantasy. I told her what I wanted: Doggie Style, with pepperoni, salami, sausage, and ground beef; then I told her how I liked it: thin cornmeal crust. She asked me what size and I blushed, responding X-large, 18 inches. “That’ll be $21.06. I’ll take cash or card. We’ll be at the door in an hour.” The next hour was like foreplay: my mouth was watering and my palms became sweaty as I waited. Would this be oral pleasure or just a tease?

Finally the pizza came. Like an animal, I hurriedly ripped open the box, exposing its tantalizing toppings. With reckless abandon I buried my face in a piece of the pie. Not too greasy, each hearty piece was exploding with flavor. Unlike a lot of the others, the toppings didn’t just all taste like pepperoni. Sausage tasted like sausage and salami tasted like salami. After finishing half the box, I sat back thoroughly satisfied. “Wow, next time, my pal Lucky and I are gonna have to try the Menàge A Trois ($24.52 for feta, ricotta, provolone, Monterey, and light parmesan).”

A small part of the fun at Pizza Orgasmica is, of course, the original menu items. Where else can you get a Virgin (cheeseless pizza with spinach, eggplant, tomatoes, and spice potatoes- $15.07 to $20.60) or an Aphrodisiac (seafood pizza with white wine cream sauce, salmon, scallops, and marinated shrimp from $16.22 to $24.52) without fear of offending someone? But more impressive than the names, the pizza combinations are equally, if not more, varied and inventive. If none of their creations don’t impress you (how can you NOT be curious about one day getting a Divorce- a pizza with bleu cheese sauce, anchovies, garlic, onions, and clams from $15.53 to $21.06?), then you can pick from a wide variety of different cheeses (Bianca, provolone and ricotta to name a few), seafood (including salmon and marinated shrimp), and sauces (from bbq to cheddar garlic to refried beans). Their offerings of meat consist of the standard fare, but also include specialties like lemon pepper chicken, Brazilian style chicken, pesto chicken, and linguisa. The most extensive list, however, is their 28 vegetables toppings. I’ve never had capers, hearts of palm, or pinenuts on pizza, but I think I may try it soon (not all together, though). It should be noted, however, that certain items count as two toppings. Extra toppings range from $1.50 (for a small pizza) to $2.25 (for extra large). As if there wasn’t enough variety already, you can also choose between the thin cornmeal crust and Sicilian thick crust.

Pizza Orgasmica is more than a pizza place. They have a their own Orgasmica Original Micro Brew beers as well as a good selection of premium beers on tap (including anchor steam, bass, red hook for $4), domestic bottled beers, and house white and red wines by the glass ($5) or bottle ($15).

Pizza Orgasmica

823 Clement St.

(415) 386-6000

7days a week, from 11-12 (Sun-W),1 (Th), or 2 (F-Sat)

Restaurant Review: Palomino- Galloping Good Food

It seems like Mission Bay is starting to come together- students are finally moving into their on-campus apartments, the fabulous community center is now open, showcasing the impressive Bakar Fitness and Recreation Center, research labs are burning the midnight oil. So it should not be surprising that the surrounding neighborhood offers tons of places to eat. Lucky and I decided to wander down to Palomino to sample what ‘that side of the bay’ had to offer.

Located off the Embarcadero, which affords a grand view of the Bay Bridge, Palomino is an upscale Italian restaurant with chic ambiance and a menu filled with tempting choices. The warm maroon colored walls are contrasted by track lights spotlighting tasteful collections of large hand blown glass bowls. Rich wood trim and starched tablecloths gave the restaurant a stylish character, but both the clientele and the staff kept the place from being pretentious. The patrons ranged from laughing families with children to quiet couples sharing a romantic dinner. Somehow they coexisted without impinging on their neighbors’ atmosphere. The wait staff was professional and approachable, even offering their favorites as well as what they thought should be taken off the menu (one suggested that the oysters were sorely lackluster). Judging by its charm, one probably would not have guessed that it is actually a chain restaurant. At first I couldn’t quite place it- the logo of the red horse looked so familiar, but I could not remember ever eating at this particular restaurant. It was while browsing the menu while waiting to be seated when I remembered the wonderful Roma-style paper thin crust pizzas on which I used to lunch at the La Jolla Palomino.

We had not expected a fifteen minute wait on a Sunday evening, so we were thankful for the French bread they provided while we waited for our meal. Served with the warm, chewy bread is a hearty marinara with chunks of chunks of fresh tomatoes and mozzarella cheese. We were working on our first helping of bread while we decided what to order. The appetizers all sounded delectable; unfortunately our budget (and our appetites) allowed us only one appetizer and our entrees. I narrowed it down to three and let Lucky make the difficult final decision: Dungeness crab cakes seared and served with pesto beurre blanc and roasted red peppers ($9.50); crispy risotto croquette with Italian sausage, mozzarella and marinara ($7.50); and Dungeness crab and artichoke dip with parmesan cheese, served with cracked pizza crust ($13.50). After having to listen to me praise their pizzas for 15 minutes in the lobby, Lucky picked a Roma tomato and basil pizza with shaved garlic, extra virgin olive oil, marinara, and mozzarella ($9.95). I, on the other hand, decided that I should try something else, since I already knew that I would be eating some of Lucky’s pizza. My indecisiveness usually means that I have to study the menu for a good five minutes. But the extensive menu, combined with the delicious descriptions required at least ten minutes. After much drooling, I narrowed it down to three. From the poultry section, I picked out the grilled apricot cilantro chicken $16.50). From the seafood section, I chose the famous paella, made with Manila clams, Penn Cove mussels, fresh fish, chicken, chorizo, and Spanish saffron rice. From the pasta section, I was eyeing (and ultimately chose) the fettuccine with their signature rotisserie salmon, asparagus, diced tomatoes, and scallions in a garlic butter and scotch cream sauce ($17.95).

The crab and artichoke dip arrived while I was working through the second round of bread. The dip was decadently rich, with a generous number of sizable pieces of crab. It complemented the crispy cracked pizza crust, which was piping hot from the oven. Not long after we cleaned every last speck of dip off the plate, the entrees were served. Lucky’s pizza was just as I remembered- large, thin, and well-covered. The thin crust was rigid enough to hold up on its own, but it was light, as if the toppings were resting on air. Together, we were able to finish off a little over half the pizza. We probably would have been able to finish off the whole pizza if not for the appetizer and bread, but still it was a good size. The pasta came in an oversize plate, making the pasta serving look deceptive small. The noodles, which were of a perfect al dente firmness, were swimming in a delicious sauce and topped with fresh pieces of asparagus. The sauce was so creamy, licking my lips was as useless as old, worn out windshield wipers trying to clean a dirty windshield. The moist rotisserie salmon, cut into bite sized pieces, had a light smoky taste that completed the dish. We were stuffed by the end of dinner, at which point the waiter returned to ask us if we wanted to look at a dessert menu. “It would be pretty pointless,” I responded out of breath. It was a shame, though, since they did have a great selection of desserts including pear bread pudding, vanilla crème brulee, and a chocolate torte.

Whether you are in the mood for dinner or just drinks, Palomino is a place for a nice night out. They offer an extensive wine list, great food, a wonderful ambiance, and free three hour parking validation in addition to a great bar and patio area for cocktails and happy hour. Palomino is not an inexpensive restaurant, but if you are in the Mission Bay area or live there, stop in.

Palomino- Restaurant, Rotisserie, Bar

345 Spear Street
San Francisco, CA 94105
(415) 512-7400

Restaurant Review: Esperpento- Oh Yeah, Tapas That

The first time I experienced tapas was during a trip to Malaga, a southern seaside town in Spain. Depending on how you look at it, that could be a good thing or a bad thing. On one hand, I had the opportunity to try some of the best damned tapas in the world. After all, tapas reportedly originated in the southern province of Andalusia in the 19^th century. I remember walking along the boardwalk, going from one chiringuito (beachside restaurant) to the next, ordering one dish here, another there. So I always jump at the opportunity for tapas. The only problem is that they often fall short of expectations.

Some people might be wondering what tapas are. I would say they are Spain’s version of dim sum. Rather than order an appetizer, a salad, and an entrée, one would order a variety of small plates, or tapas, to share among the party. The problem with tapas is because there is such a huge variety, it is difficult to decide what to choose. With that, I have listed a small sampling of some of the many dishes available at a tapas bar.

Patatas Bravas- a dish of browned potatoes covered with a spicy piquant sauce made with paprika, chili and cumin.

Papas Alioli- potatoes, typically broiled or fried, served with a white garlic mayonaise sauce. The raw garlic usually makes this dish a bit spicy and pungent.

Tortilla de Patata- a cross between a potato cake (not in the sense of a birthday cake; rather in the sense of having a potato base) and an omelet, served cold

Gamba Ajillo - Shrimp with olive oil, garlic, and chili powder, baked in an oven in a Spanish earthenware cazuela pot.

Almeja Plancha – Clams in the shell served in a tomato based broth.

Calamar Frito - Fried calamari. It’s basically the same as what you would find in an Italian restaurant’s appetizer section.

Chorizo – Spanish sausage, typically having less fat and being more finely ground than Mexican chorizo. It is often hard and spicy.

Conejo a la cazuela- Rabbit stewed with carrots and potatoes, again using the cazuela pot. The meat is a bit gamey, but not as much as lamb. While it is a leaner meat, it is not dry or tough when prepared well.

Manchego – Semi-firm Spanish cheese with a golden texture. It is aged for at least 3 months, giving it a pungent flavor in a class similar to bleu cheese.

Gazpacho - A cold, mildly spicy broth of pureed tomatoes containing vegetables like cucumber, peppers, celery and onions. If salsa were made into a soup, this would be close.

Sangria - Red wine and brandy sweetened with sugar and infused with a variety of fruits (usually apples, pears, and oranges). A delicious way to wash down your meal.

Esperpento in the Mission District offers these dishes and many more. This restaurant comes closer than most other tapas bars that I’ve tried in satisfaction and authenticity. The atmosphere is lively and the mood is festive. Although it is a bi-level restaurant, it is a very popular and reservations are strongly advised. In order to try as many dishes as possible, go in a big group. Portions are decent, with each dish ranging from 4 to 6 dollars. A group of 8 can easily polish off 10 to 15 tapas. A jar of sangria will fill 4 glasses and costs $16. It isn’t inexpensive, so be prepared to spend 15 to 25 dollars a person.

Esperpento

3295 22^nd St. San Francisco, CA 94110

Restaurant Review: India Clay Oven- Nirvana for Your Mouth

Whenever my brother doesn’t know what to eat for dinner, he usually calls me up for suggestions and vice versa. In his infinite knowledge, he thought Indian food would hit the spot. Tasty Curry, Naan and Curry, and Tikka Masala came to mind, but I was a bit tired of food from the Inner Sunset region of India, where kormas taste like saags and aloos taste like masalas. Though a little farther from the UCSF beaten path and for a couple of bucks more, the trip to India Clay Oven is worth it when you feel like eating Indian food that has transcended to a higher level.

The décor of the restaurant was refreshingly elegant and classy. High ceilings and large windows gave the restaurant an open, airy feeling while the warm wood trim and dark orange paint made the place feel inviting and comfortable. The wait staff was even attentive and courteous, filling our glasses before the water ever reached the bottom. It easily could have been a restaurant serving entrées for $15 to 20 each. But instead, the average dish ran from $7 to 12. While waiting for our orders, we were served papadum, crisp lentil wafers, with a spicy green mint chutney as well as a hot and sour tamarind chutney. This made for a nice appetizer, but we did not have to wait long since our orders arrived in a timely manner.

The first dish ordered was bhindi masala ($7.95), consisting of fresh cut okra, chopped onion and stewed tomatoes. Okra is a fickle vegetable- if overcooked, it becomes slimy and gooey. While this is acceptable in some preparations of okra, the freshness of the okra was the emphasis of this dish. As such, it was supple and relatively firm. Okra’s subtle essence was contrasted by the pungent onions and garlic and the acidity of the tomatoes, creating a dish of balanced flavors.

The next dish that followed was a generous serving of lamb vindaloo ($10.95), a stew made mostly of lamb and a few potatoes. The lamb had a hint of gaminess, not overwhelming, but just enough to let you know that it was lamb. Each piece was tender, like eating a pat of butter. The sauce was spicy, but not to the point of overwhelming the dish. It can be ordered as mild, medium, or spicy (we ordered medium). The only minor complaint was that there were only a few potatoes, but that was easily overlooked.

The last dish we ordered was the chicken tikka kabab ($11.95)- boneless cubes of chicken cooked in a tandoor oven and served on a sizzling platter with onions and red and green peppers. We were hesitant to order this dish since this is usually hit or miss. At worst, the chicken is dry and tasteless. But at best, it is smoky, flavorful, tender and moist. Their preparation was right on and the amount they gave was very liberal.

Along with the above dishes, we had an order of paratha ($2.00), buttered multi-layered whole wheat bread. While it was a little on the dry side, it went extremely well with the sauce of the bhindi masala and/or the vindaloo. To drink, we ordered a mango lassi ($2.75), a sweet drink made of Indian mango juice and tangy homemade yogurt. If you have not had it before, I would say its consistency is closest to a smoothie. Most lassis are very sweet, which are fine by me. But this lassi was not overly sweet; the tanginess of the yogurt was excellent in balancing the sweetness of the mango juice.

Many of the Indian restaurants featuring food from the Inner Sunset region of India are not bad. But after a while, the different entrées on one plate begin to blend into one taste. Here, the flavors of each entrée is bold and distinct, yet complement one another when eaten together. I was extremely impressed with my brother’s choice and will definitely be making treks out to this restaurant to try some of the other dishes offered on this extensive menu.

India Clay Oven

2436 Clement St.

San Francisco, CA 94121

Restaurant Review: Neptune's Palace- Little More Than a Room With a View

It was a gorgeous Saturday afternoon, the kind where you feel like you have to be outside to take advantage of the weather. So my friends from LA and I did just that by taking one of those hour-long narrated bay cruises. As an added bonus, it was a Fleet Week weekend and the Blue Angels and other flying groups were putting on a spectacular air show above. It was a feast for the eyes, but the stomachs reminded us that they were being neglected as they began to grumble. We decided to head to Neptune’s Palace, a seafood restaurant located on the upper deck of Pier 39, in hopes of appeasing our eyes and stomachs.

It’s been said that there are three things that make a business a success: Location, location, and location. Neptune’s Palace has prime real estate on Pier 39, offering an amazing bay view. We were seated in the back of the restaurant where three of the four walls of the rectangular room were windows. On a clear day, you can catch a glimpse of the Golden Gate Bridge on the left. Straight ahead, even on cloudy days, one can see Alcatraz Island. If you look to the right, you have a view of most of the Bay Bridge. The décor was elegant and the ambiance quiet yet comfortable. The wait staff was well-mannered, even though it took us a while to put in our order. It was the kind of place you would bring someone you wanted to impress.

As an appetizer, we decided on the fried calamari ($8.50), served over a bed of cabbage with a side of mayonnaise sauce and a side of cocktail sauce, which interestingly had a hint of barbeque flavor. The breading was light enough not to overpower the calamari, which had a firm yet yielding texture. I’ve been to places where the calamari is more like breaded, deep fried rubber- this was the diametric opposite. The table was silent as we voraciously devoured our appetizer, heads all directed toward the window like trees growing toward the sunlight, as we watched the jets diving in formation.

The calamari was followed attentively and quickly with our entrees. Jo had ordered the seafood bisque ($4.95) and Dave ordered the clam chowder in a breadbowl ($13.95). I decided on the 2 course lunch special- a choice of the bisque or the clam chowder with a choice of two types of fish. I chose the clam chowder and sesame-crusted ahi tuna served with wasabi butter. It also included a side of vegetables and a bowl of rice ($17.50). Considering Jo had become rather seasick on the boat, she did a fine of polishing off the bisque. I was less impressed with the clam chowder. It’s not that it was bad, but I would not be surprised if they just went a few doors down to Boudin, ordered clam chowder there, and served it as their own. That would be fine if they didn’t charge an extra 9 dollars. The sesame-crusted ahi tuna was decent. What kept it from being excellent was that the sesame seeds were a bit too overpowering for the tuna. Furthermore, the tuna was not as rare as I would have preferred. But the wasabi butter was an excellent addition to the dish, giving it the zing that was otherwise missing.

I have to wonder if maybe the other items on the menu were better choices. But for the price, I would have expected better odds. That day, my eyes were thoroughly satisfied while my stomach was satiated at best. Go for the view, take your chances with the food.

Neptune’s Palace

Pier 39 Fisherman’s Wharf

(415) 434-2260

Restaurant Review: Mitchell's Ice Cream- You Scream, I Scream

The Mitchell family has had people screaming for their ice cream for almost 53 years, and all the screaming has not gone unnoticed. Mitchell’s Ice Cream has won dozens of awards throughout the years and has been featured on programs such as Food Channel’s “Roker on the Road.” Sure, they make it fresh daily in the store and use 16% butterfat cream, real fruits (for its fruit flavors), and actual Kahlua coffee liqueur in its Kahlua Mocha Cream, but can you taste a difference? Was it really worth all the screaming? Enquiring minds wanted to know, so Lucky and I decided to head on over to Mitchell’s (which is conveniently located a block away from Goood Frikin’ Chicken) to taste for ourselves.

We decided that the fairest way to evaluate the ice cream as a brand was to taste a variety of diverse flavors. It was difficult to pick from the more than 40 flavors available, especially since they were all so different and sounded so delicious. We decided the best way to hit the full spectrum of flavors was to pick one from their standard flavors, one from their seasonal flavors, and two from their tropical flavors. Now came the hard part- narrowing it down.

In the standard section we could choose from the typical (Vanilla, Chocolate, Coffee, Rocky Road) to the unique (Caramel Bliss, Deep Dish Apple Pie, Dulce de Leche, Mexican Chocolate, Kahlua Mocha Cream, Thin Mint, and so many more). After several samples, we settled on the Grasshopper Pie. The coolness of the mint was particularly fresh while the helpings of sizeable Oreo pieces and ribbons of fudge were quite generous. It was kind of like eating an It’s It (the San Francisco original), but more decadent and satisfying.

We chose the Pumpkin ice cream from among Eggnog, Peppermint Candy, and Spumoni available for the flavors available through February. It was like Thanksgiving all over again. Somehow, they were able to make it taste like a creamier frozen pumpkin pie. The texture was a bit grittier, but it didn’t detract from our enjoyment in the least. If you are looking for that special flavor to celebrate St. Patrick’s Day, try the Irish Coffee.

The tropical flavors are what Mitchell’s is particularly known for, especially since they import fresh fruits from the Philippines to capture the true flavors. Buko (young coconut), Ube (purple yam), and Langka (jackfruit) are some of the flavors that some may not be accustomed to. But don’t knock it till you’ve tried at least a sample. The friendly scoopers will let you sample as many as you like, but keep in mind that there is usually a line of people waiting for you to make a decision. A refreshing and unique taste will reward those adventurous enough to give these flavors a try. Lucky and I ended up with the Halo Halo, named after the Filipino dessert of the same name, consisting of buko, langka, ube, pineapple, mongo and sweet beans. Those familiar with the dessert will not be disappointed. My only complaint was that the frozen beans were too hard and tasteless unless I let them thaw in my mouth. Still the actually pieces of fruit mixed into the ice cream made it superb. The other flavor that we decided on was the Tropical Four, a mixture of banana, guava, mango, and pineapple flavors. Lucky was a bit disappointed because she was expecting a swirling of the four different ice creams. Instead, the four were blended into one, resulting in an ice cream in which the subtler guava and mango were not as apparent as the banana and the pineapple flavors. But still, with actual pieces of fruit in there, the flavors were still detectable.

Mitchell’s ice cream is quite affordable, with single cones going for $2.20, half pints going for $4.10 and 7” cakes going for $22.50. Yes, it was Lucky’s birthday recently and her sole wish was for a Banana ice cream chocolate cake. She was so excited to eat it that we didn’t even sing Happy Birthday. Now she’s looking for any reason to buy another ice cream cake. Even on rainy days, there can be a line of people, but it moves fast. And when you get to the counter, I’m sure you will think it was worth the wait.

Mitchell’s Ice Cream

688 San Jose Ave.

San Francisco, CA 94110

(415) 648-2300

Open daily 11am to 11pm

Theatre Review: Jersey Boys- Oh What a Night of Music

Sunday began the run of Jersey Boys, the story of Frankie Valli and the Four Seasons. Though I was surrounded by an audience consisting mostly of people at least 20 years my senior, at times it seemed like I was sitting with teenie boppers falling over themselves as they swooned over their favorite crooners. And with good reason- the actor/ singers did such an amazing job impersonating The Four Seasons that at times, you kinda forget you’re watching a musical and start to think of it as a concert. But, that’s not to take anything away from the entertaining story about four average Joes from New Jersey with aspirations of fame and fortune.

The story of The Four Seasons, told through the viewpoint of its four original members, does not involve four retellings of the same story. Rather, each member becomes the narrator in sequential order starting with the man who takes the credit for their formation- Tommy Devito. This is followed by Bob Guidio’s version of how his songwriting brings the group its glory days, with three number one’s in a row including Sherry, Walk Like a Man and Big Girls Don’t Cry. With his telling comes the interesting origins of some of their songs. For example, December, 1963 (Oh What a Night) was inspired by Guidio’s first sexual encounter. Like all things, it ain’t always peaches and cream, and soon bassist Nick Massi tells of how the group falls apart. Gambling debts, family problems, and the disintegration of the original group then gives way to the rebirth as lead singer Frankie Valli tells of how he and Guidio pull themselves out of the hole and back into the spotlight in their new incarnation Frankie Valli and The Four Seasons.

While character depth isn’t the strength of the show, the characters are interesting and the actors, entertaining. Of particular note are Deven May as Tommy Devito, the mob-connected goodfella/guitarist always looking out for number one, and John Altieri as Bob Crewe, the gender bending writer/producer with an uncanny ear for number one hits who gives The Four Seasons their first big break. Still, the structure of the show more than compensates for the characters’ lack of depth. Tony Award winning director Des McAnuff successfully uses the music to complement a compelling, if not unique, story rather than trying to fit the story around the music. The fact that one hit after another is intricately intertwined into the story makes it more than just a vehicle for the typical “jukebox musical.” Without a strong foundation, it may have just been a concert by a cover band.

While the music is the icing on an already tasty cake, the icing is the most delicious part. Christopher Kale Jones does a fabulous job belting out Frankie Valli’s falsetto. Hitting all the high notes, not only was his range impressive, but he sounded just like Valli. Granted, The Four Seasons were big before my time, but I have heard their original songs before. In fact, I would be surprised if anyone hasn’t heard at least one song by the group. Does Can’t Take My Eyes Off You sound familiar? How about Working My Way Back to You or Stay (Just a Little Bit Longer)? It was like being at a Four Seasons concert- I half expected women to throw their undies on the stage. Instead, the company got an instant standing ovation at the shows end with the roar of the crowd increasing in intensity as the real members of The Four Seasons took bows with their counterparts. Oh What a Night, indeed!

Jersey Boys

@ The Curran Theatre

445 Geary Street

Tickets: $30-$90

Through Dec 30th

Restaurant Review: Jardiniere- Gastronomical and Ecological Consciousness

Sometimes we get so caught up in the never ending tumult of our busy schedules that we leave little time to enjoy ourselves. Admittedly, these past couple weeks of mid-terms put me into an eat-to-survive mode: Eating had become a chore that I tried to get through as quickly as possible so that I could get back to studying the dosing regimen for insulin monotherapy for Therapeutics. But recently, I was finally brought to my senses as my wife Lucky and I sat down to a leisurely one and a half hour meal, affording us the opportunity to enjoy each others’ company as well as what the French-American restaurant Jardinière had to offer.

From its extensive wine collection to its fresh, delicious selections to its unique atmosphere, Jardinière has a lot to offer to those willing to take the time to enjoy it. A dark brick interior with dark wood trim and sconce lighting contrasts the centrally located bar encircled by an inverted champagne glass motif. We were led up the spiral staircase to the upstairs dining area, which afforded a top down view of the bar teeming with an amazing collection of wine, spirits and liqueurs. As we chatted about how the day went, our server came to our table with a leather-bound binder with literally over 30 pages of wines. We were dumbfounded by the sheer number of wines from all over the world, ranging anywhere from a $9 glass of pinot noir from Burgundy, France to a $850 bottle of Coche-Dury Corton-Chalemagne “Grand Cru” 2001. Unfortunately, neither Lucky nor I have a palette for fine wines. The sommelier took the binder away, saddened by the fact that we were cheating our taste buds of the nectar of the gods while all the other tables enjoyed their liquid nirvana. Feeling somewhat left out, we settled on a bottle of their very best Santa Lucia sparkling mineral water. As we feasted on toasted rolls with fresh butter and our mineral water, we perused a menu consisting of appetizers and entrées using an assortment of organic produce, fish and meat from local farms, fishers, and ranchers who use sustainable practices in growing, raising, and harvesting their products.

We decided to start off with Maine Diver Scallops with fennel, navel orange, Chioggia beets, and jamon Serrano vinaigrette ($19). A diver scallop is a scallop that is collected from the ocean by divers hand-picking each one as opposed to by boats that drag heavy chain sweeps across the ocean floor, damaging it and the bottom dwelling inhabitants in the process. As impressive as the means to protect the ocean was the buttery texture of the four succulent half-dollar sized scallops. The vinaigrette, with miniscule bits of dry-cured Spanish ham, added tartness with just a hint of smoky bacon flavor.

We then chose the Alaskan Halibut with fresh chickpeas, Chioggia beets, wild ramps and pixie mandarins in a herb fennel broth ($36) and Rack of Colorado lamb with Wild Asparagus, fingerling potatoes, fava beans, and black trumpet mushrooms over a celery leaf salsa verde ($44). Unfortunately I can’t say much about the halibut because Lucky only gave me a tiny bite of her meal. When I asked her how it was, she simply answered, “It’s really yummy!” before she put another forkful of fish into her mouth. What I did remember, though, was that the fennel broth broke up the already tender fish, resulting in a stew of distinct flavors. The wild ramps, or leeks, stood their own against the sweet mandarins. I can attest to the deliciousness of the lamb, though. Two exquisitely roasted racks of lamb crusted with rosemary and thyme kept me busy enough that I did not ask for another bite of Lucky’s halibut. Tender and yielding, the lamb was perfectly roasted medium, releasing the jus with every cut. Had we not been in such a nice restaurant, I would have grabbed the lamb by the bone and eaten it like a drumstick. The wild asparagus and black trumpet mushrooms were proof enough to me that they used the freshest ingredients: It is difficult to put it into words, but the flavors were noticeably vivid.

There were many dishes showcasing the fresh seasonal ingredients, but it may be some time before we can afford to go back to Jardinière. For those who can afford it, it is a great place to dine before a symphony, an opera or a night at the ballet since it is a block away from Davies Symphony Hall and the War Memorial Opera House. While it is not an inexpensive restaurant, they are to be commended on their socially responsible efforts to serve sustainable foods. That being said, they should also be lauded for their commitment to great food and service.

Jardinière

300 Grove St (at Franklin)

San Francisco, CA 94102

(415) 861-5555

Reservations recommended

4 stars

Restaurant Review: Goood Frikin' Chicken- It's All Good

With a name like Goood Frikin’ Chicken, my pal Lucky and I HAD to try this place. GFC, as they refer to themselves, serves a variety of Mediterranean style food. Served either a la carte or as a complete meal (with salad, olive oil pita bread, garlic dip, and a choice of a side: house potatoes, baked beans, basmati rice pilaf, mac and cheese, or hummus), they offer kababs, falafels, and shawermas. A la carte items range from $4.95 to $6.75 and complete meals range from $7.25 to $8.95. But as described by the name, they’re known for their goood frickin’ chicken. Thanks to its newly renovated seating area, the restaurant finally has good frickin’ ambiance, too. Before, a few stools lined up against the window accompanied a few spartan tables with Tabasco sauce as their only adornment. Now there is a brightly lighted, Mediterranean themed dining area that accommodates 72.

We ordered one whole rotisserie chicken meal as well as a half open flame chicken meal. For sides, we chose the hummus and a half of macaroni and cheese and a half of basmati rice pilaf (they were scraping the bottom of the pot for mac and cheese by when we got there). The car ride home was pure agony: the tantalizing aroma filled the entire car, enticing us to tear into the chicken on the way home. But I resisted the temptation, knowing that it would be impossible to control a greasy steering wheel.

When we finally arrived home, we threw ourselves onto the chicken like starving vultures. We began with the rotisserie chicken, which was seasoned with a blend of Mediterranean spices rubbed into the skin. Because it is slow cooked, the flavor is infused throughout the whole chicken. That being said, some may find the skin too flavorful, but I thought it was delicious with the basmati rice. The rotisserie allows the chicken to be evenly cooked while keeping it moist. Even the breast, which can easily be overcooked, was moist. On top of that, the meat was not excessively oily. It is greasy enough that the handi-wipes they give you are very useful, but you don’t feel as though the chicken will slide down your throat. A subtle hint of lemon gave the meat a tanginess which accentuated the mild spiciness. The open flame chicken was seasoned with similar, if not the same, spices. However, because it was cooked differently, the meat was a tad spicier. Although it was still quite moist, it was definitely drier than the rotisserie chicken. The whole meal was definitely enough to feed three grown adults, perhaps even four. The half open flame chicken was just overkill.

The sides that came with the meal were hit or miss. The olive oil pita bread was oxymoronic: somehow it managed to be pillowy despite its being drenched in olive oil. When eaten with the chicken and the accompanying garlic spread, it was perfect. My only complaint was that there was not enough pita for the whole meal. The salad, consisting of lettuce, scant tomatoes, and a lemony dressing, was refreshing and light. Alone, it was relatively bland; with the chicken, it was great. But like the pita, the amount given left a lot to be desired. The macaroni and cheese was entirely unappetizing, perhaps because we got the last scoop. I was reminded that the name of the place was Goood Frikin’ Chicken, not Goood Frikin’ Sides.

If you find yourself in the Mission and are fortunate enough to find a parking spot, pick up a delicious, filling, and relatively inexpensive whole chicken today. I think you’ll agree that the chicken is so goood, it deserves the extra o!

Goood Frikin’ Chicken

10 29^th St. @ Mission

San Francisco, 94110

(415) 970-2428

Open daily 11am to 10pm

4 out of 5 stars

Restaurant Review: Flying Fish Grill- Best Fish Tacos in the Bay Area

“We’ve been biking for hours and we’re not even in Redondo Beach yet,” my pal Lucky whined. “Don’t worry, we’ll be at the Redondo Beach pier in less than five minutes,” I tried to reassure her. “Are you kidding me? I bet you it’ll take longer than that,” she challenged. “You’re on. What’s the bet?”

“If I’m right, you owe me a seafood dinner,” she retorted, her eyes glazed over as if she were already ready to sit down to that dinner.
Nine minutes later, I was trying to convince her that she had sabotaged me by slowing down the pace. But to no avail. Both she and I knew that I had lost another bet.

She had had some great clam chowder in Half Moon Bay one time, but didn’t know exactly where she had it several years ago. So we drove aimlessly for a few minutes, trying to find any sort of ‘restaurant row.’ Starving and lost, we pulled into a small parking lot to try to get our bearings. Tired of driving around, we decided to stop into a tiny little shack of a restaurant called the Flying Fish Grill. Little did we know that we had found what Lucky would later call “The best Seafood restaurant I’ve ever been to… with you.”

Located on the southwest corner of Main St. and the 92 Highway, this unassuming restaurant serves a wide variety of delicious morsels from the sea at affordable prices. What this no frills place lacks in ambiance, it more than makes up for in taste. A variety of grilled fish selections are offered, including seabass, salmon, and mahi-mahi ($9.95). With each selection comes two sides from an interesting list: French fries, polenta fries, yam fries, sliced tomatoes, grilled vegetables (which at the moment was zucchini), or rice. Within minutes, an ample serving of mahi-mahi was delivered to our table along with a side of rice and sweet yam fries . I wanted to try polenta fries, but that would have been too many fries. It would have to wait until the next visit. As I cut a piece off from with my fork, I could tell that the firm yet flaky flesh was a quality piece of fish cooked. But just to make sure, I took a bite- the grilled flavor with a hint of lemon confirmed that it was not only a fresh piece, but that the person at the grill was a pro. I had sides of teriyaki sauce and tartar sauce at my disposal, but the fish was so tasty, it didn’t need any accoutrements to enhance it. Instead, I used the teriyaki sauce for my yam fries, which were crispy and sweet. The rice, cooked in a chicken broth base, was subtly flavored, complementing the fish nicely.

The last time Lucky had eaten at Half Moon Bay, she had clam chowder. Holding to tradition, she decided to order New England clam chowder in a bread bowl ($5.95). Unfortunately, they were fresh out of bread bowls, but they served it in a bowl with a generous portion of sourdough on the side. The chowder was hearty and hot, perfect fare for the gloomy summer fog draped over the bay. With chunks of potatoes and plenty of clams, the sin of not having a bread bowl was easily forgiven. Each spoonful, whether eaten alone or with the sourdough, hit the spot, clinging to your ribs like glue.

Either I ate too much of her clam chowder or she was especially famished, but Lucky also ordered a Grande Fish Taco ($3.45). I was not particularly looking forward to a fish taco here because I’ve been spoiled by San Diego fish tacos. I considered myself a connoisseur with extremely high standards for what a fish taco should taste like. “Surely you jest,” you might be saying. But if you have never had fish tacos from Mexico or San Diego, you just wouldn’t understand. And so, I was already thinking of what could be wrong with the fish taco before it even reached the table: Too much cabbage; not enough thousand island sauce; the batter on the fish isn’t light or crispy enough; the corn tortilla is too dry.

“You HAVE to try this,” Lucky said, offering the taco to me. “Nah, I’m not that hungry anymore. Besides, it’s probably not like San Diego fish ta-” Lucky shoved the taco into my mouth and suddenly I was transported back to San Diego, with its warm sun, blue skies, and cool breeze. They even got the batter right, a cross between tempura and fish and chips’ fish batter. And they had the wedge of lime, not lemon, that should accompany every fish taco. It was such a piece of work that another fish taco was ordered.

While the Flying Fish Grill may be off the Parnassus and Mission Bay maps, it is a nice place to visit on the weekend when you might get the urge to drive along the beautiful coast or if you just have a hankering for fish tacos. If the place is too crowded (seats about 30, so it can fill up at a moment’s notice) or want to have a picnic on the beach, use their walk-up take-out window. A word of caution: you may find yourself craving their fish tacos!

Flying Fish Grill

Southwest Corner of Main St. and Highway 92

Half Moon Bay 94019

Restaurant Review: Dottie's True Blue Cafe- Dottie's Won't Leave You Feeling Blue

Lucky herself admitted that occasionally she’ll give false directions just because she wanted to feel helpful, even if it gets someone even more lost. So when she replied that we were headed in the right direction, I was a little more than skeptical. We had just passed O’Farrell’s Adult Entertainment, at least 5 liquor stores, and dozens of shops that were barred up for the morning. We finally reached the intersection of Jones and O’Farrell and saw what might possibly be Dottie’s True Blue Cafe.
“You think those people are waiting for Dottie’s?” I asked. From behind us came a voice, “Yeah, that place is goooooood. The line’s about a 30 minute wait, but it’s worth it.” I turned and saw a man dressed in a beanie and sweats, most likely one of the locals around the neighborhood. He was hustling for a couple bucks, but at least he was helpful and friendly. Lucky took out a few bucks and we thanked the man for his help. We had a couple hours to spare and no other places to eat, so we took our place in line.

Dottie’s is something of an oasis in the middle of the concrete dessert of the Tenderloin district, known more for its bars than it’s breakfast spots. Had it not been for the line of people out the door, there would have been nothing to distinguish this from the rest of the rest of the unimpressive block. But the warm cozy atmosphere, friendly wait staff, and delicious food made this crowded little spot a homey place. The walls are decorated with pictures of famous African-American entertainers Dorothy Dandridge and Josephine Baker, clad in a barely-there pearl outfit. In the background, barely audible over the whir of polite conversation, plays the music of artists like Ray Charles and Billie Holliday. Most were seated at one of the fifteen or so tables accompanying two to four, but there was also a counter seating five to six comfortably.

My mouth watered as I read over the entrees offered. Both breakfast and lunch were served, but by the looks of most tables, breakfast was the meal of choice. It wasn’t hard to see why: How could you pass up fresh baked pastries, fresh squeezed juice, pancakes- all the things that make up a breakfast of champions. In addition to the breakfast offerings on the menu, there were about a dozen daily specials written on a dry erase board. Lucky, in fact, decided on the Blueberry Cornmeal Pancakes with Pure Maple Syrup ($8.25) from the board. The pancakes were quite moist, and the fresh blueberries baked into them were still quite juicy and flavorful, making the addition of maple syrup almost unnecessary. The bacon that was ordered as a side had a robust smoked wood flavor, but it was overdone and too stiff.

I was torn between two items on the menu. There was The Open Road ($10.75), consisting of fresh-squeezed juice, two eggs done to your liking, your choice of pancakes or French toast, home potatoes, and either sausage, bacon, or ham. And then there was The Southwestern- andouille sausage, mushrooms, onions, peppers, jack cheese over an open faced omelet served with a side of home potatoes and tortillas. Aye caramba! The huge portion that came out did not disappoint. All the flavors of the different ingredients did not overpower the others, including the sausage. The eggs were not overcooked or runny, and the distribution of cheese was such that every bite was even.

Dottie’s neighborhood may be seedy, but it’s worth the trip. Go for their breakfasts ($6 to 10) and bring home some fresh pastries with you for later.

Dottie’s True Blue Café

522 Jones St.

SF, CA 94102

(415) 805-2767

Open 7 days a week from 7:30am to 3:30pm

Restaurant Review: Noriega Teriyaki House- Battling Big Fish

It was a grueling week filled with battles. I had been living on little food and even less sleep, spending every precious second trying to catch up on several weeks’ worth of material for a number of classes. On Monday, the first shots were fired at the Skirmish of Physiology, followed by even more intense fighting during the Battles of Pharmacology and Pharmaceutical Chemistry. It was a fight filled with innumerable casualties, but alas, I have not yet been kicked out of Pharmacy School. Although it was a pyrrhic victory, my pal Lucky and I decided to head over to Noriega Teriyaki House to celebrate the end of the first wave of midterms. Little did we know that we were in for yet another battle.

The restaurant seemed rather innocuous, even inviting with the full sized artificial maple tree adorning the front room. The sushi chefs behind the counter smiled and bowed as we walked by the bar. Soft shakuhachi bamboo flute played over the stereo as the modest waitress politely led us to our table. Looking over the menu, it seemed as if this would be a typical Kiki-like Japanese restaurant experience. There was a variety of reasonably priced sushi-vegetable ($2.50) or sushi maki ($2.75 to $4.95). Even the nigiri was afforadable, running from $2.95 to $3.95 for most. But we had come to celebrate surviving our first tour of duty. We decided to indulge ourselves and get some special rolls. I decided on the spider rainbow roll (soft shell crab topped with eel, yellowtail, tuna, snapper, shrimp and avocado for $5.95) and the double hamachi roll (yellowtail and scallions topped with yellowtail and avocado for $10.95). Lucky went for a little more variety, ordering the chirashi sushi- assorted raw fish (including but not limited to tuna, salmon, unagi, shrimp, octopus, tamago, halibut) over sushi rice. It also included miso soup, sunomono (a simple Japanese cucumber salad), and ice cream for $12.45.

Soon after ordering, the miso soup and sunomono were served. I waited until the waitress was out of site before I exhibited my warlike instincts: I took no prisoners, inhaling the soup and scarfing down the cucumber. I thought to myself “I better order another roll… 2 rolls won’t be enough.” But when the waitress brought the sushi, the battle began once again. I was caught off guard, shocked-and-awed by the sheer enormity of the rolls. Open your mouth as wide as you can- that was the circumference of the roll! I decided on a frontal assault of the spider roll, attempting to put the entire piece in my mouth. Lucky decided to divide and conquer, attempting to devour them in two or three bites. But handling the unwieldy pieces proved even more of a challenge, as Lucky’s placemat was splashed with soy sauce/wasabi puddles from the rolls that would wrest free of her expert chopstick grasp. My placemat wasn’t much better, riddled with fallen rice and smeared with avocado. Lucky, who usually has the appetite of a small horse, had to call for reinforcements to defeat the overwhelming number of fish in her bowl. It was a battle to be reckoned with, but in the end, we overcame our meals. Seeing that our victory was inevitable, they raised the white flag and surrendered. As a peace offering, they included a free banana coconut pudding. We gladly accepted the terms of their surrender, enjoying every bite of the refreshing dessert.

Noriega Teriyaki House offers generous portions using quality pieces of fresh fish. In addition to the aforementioned sushi, they offer a wide variety of appetizers, (from $4.95 for imperial rolls to $9.95 for 8 pieces of albacore tataki, seared white tuna), udon ( $7.45), and a variety of dinners, all including soup, sunomono, steamed rice, and ice cream (all less than $10.00). Lunch specials are seraved daily from 11:30 to 3pm and run from $6.95 for chicken teriyaki to $8.95 for a sushi lunch. Situated on the corner of 25^th and Noriega, it can easily be reached by the N-Judah if you are willing to walk a few blocks.

Noriega Teriyaki House

1755 Noriega St.

San Francisco, CA

(415) 664-7766

Restaurant Review: Asquew Grill- Good Food in Your Neighborhood

One of the things that I like most about San Francisco is all the little neighborhoods. With each neighborhood, there is a variety of interesting shops, boutiques, and, of course, restaurants. The Castro is definitely no exception. Admittedly, I have not ventured to that part of town as often as I would like although it is actually surprisingly close to campus: less than a 10 minute ride on the N-Judah plus a leisurely five minute walk. Today I had a chance to try explore The Castro and try a great restaurant where a few friends and I decided to celebrate the end of finals.

Asqew Grill is a local franchise of restaurants with locations including Emeryville, The Marina, Haight Ashbury (on 1607 Haight St. at Clayton), and The Castro. The unique name is a reference to the skewers, which are the core of the menu. Servings come as a half order (1 skewer for $5.75 to $6.75) or a regular order (2 skewers for $8.50 to $9.75). My friend Essbee thought that 1 skewer was the perfect portion for lunch. The skewers are divided into four main categories: Chicken, Meat, Seafood, and Vegetarian. As part of your order, your skewer is served atop one of five “starches” or one of eight salads.

Tired from the week of grueling finals, we turned our attention to the task at hand. Not only were there a wide variety of skewers, starches, and salads, there were also plenty of sides and soups to choose from. After we finally decided, it was only a few minutes before our meals were served. My friends Essbee and Smiles had ordered the Ragin’ Hot Buffalo-grilled chicken with roma tomatoes and red onions. Smiles thought it was “very enjoyable, a great choice for those who like spicy foods.” At first, Essbee was hesitant about having the cilantro jasmine rice as her starch, but “went with the recommendation and was very pleased with the combination.” My buddy Prima, who describers herself as “very picky when it comes to food,” thought the Cajun Chicken, with roma tomatoes, red onions, and blackened spices was “very light yet filling. The flavor was excellent with the right amount of spices.” My pal Lucky also picked up something from the Chicken menu. Her Texas BBQ chicken, with red onions and corn on the cob grilled on the skewer, was so delicious that she was inspired to write a poem about it:

I found it hard to make a choice
Between the ahi and the barbeque chicken.
I chose the chicken and found it quite moist.
So, so goood, it was finger lickin'.
The corn on the cob was the perfect side,
And the mashed potatoes really hit the spot.
I will tell you now that it’s all worth the Muni ride.
I'm sure you'll like it a lot lot lot.

My friend Booty was in the mood for something from the Seafood section. She went with the cajun swordfish which was “juicy but could use a little more kick.” Rather than choose a starch as her side, she decided on the spinach salad. In her words, “the plain walnuts, which were just plain walnuts, would have been better if they were candied. The dried cranberries added a nice balance to salad, though, tasting good and adding some nice color, too. For the most part, it was relatively good.” This was a ringing endorsement coming from someone who hates most San Francisco restaurants.

As for me, I had the mango lime swordfish on a bed of jasmine cilantro rice. The three fresh, firm pieces of fish, together with the ample serving of rice, were plentiful enough to satiate me. The chunks of mango, caps of mushroom, and lime salsa were delicious enough to impress me. The whole order may have been a better size for me, as I did not have breakfast earlier that day. Nevertheless, I was completely satisfied with my meal.

Asqew offers a simple, relatively healthy meal for an inexpensive price. The friendly staff are an interesting bunch, giving their honest recommendations and making sure everyone is enjoying their meals. Perhaps it was the great weather outside. Maybe it was because we had just finished finals. Most likely, it was the great company, coupled with tasty food, that made it an excellent meal overall.

Asqew

3583 16^th St (at Market)

San Francisco, CA 94114

415-626-3040

Restaurant Review: Ten Restaurant- A Perfect Ten?

Sure, if it’s a scale from one to 50. The newest addition to the Inner Sunset’s list of Japanese restaurants is Ten Restaurant, occupying the space of the now defunct Mae-Thip Thai restaurant at 524 Irving St. The only way it is going to avoid the fate of its predecessor is if drastic improvements are made at this upscale Japanese restaurant. Fighting for a slice of the upscale Japanese sushi market, Ten has stiff competition from the wildly popular Ebisu and notable Koo. But it may not be much of a fight, as an anemic menu offering middling food at inflated prices may have Ten committing seppuku.

The décor of the restaurant is chic with its dark red walls highlighted by sconce lighting. The black granite floors made the room feel dramatic and expansive until you notice that the tables are actually quite close together. Anime played on mute on three televisions stacked horizontally in the corner while music by Utada Hikaru and other J-pop artists with a dance beat filled the dining area.

I expected to wait awhile since it was 7pm on a Friday night at a newly opened restaurant. However, we were seated by our friendly waitress promptly, as only a quarter of the tables were occupied, not including the backroom for larger parties (which was also unoccupied). We perused the expansive menu, which offered a wide variety of options. Appetizers ranged from $3.75 to $11.75, offering anything from the usual edamame, tofu and miso soup to oysters on half shell. Assuming that their strengths lay in fish, we chose between the Sal & Man and the spicy hamachi. The first was described as smoked salmon and mango. My pal Lucky and I were uncertain if it was lox or some other way of preparing salmon. After all, how often do you get lox at a Japanese restaurant? We asked our waitress, who had a hard time describing what it was. When I asked if it was lox, her look said, “Your guess is as good as mine.” Had I noticed that baby back ribs ($16.75) was one of the selections in the a la carte menu, I would not have questioned that lox was being served under the guise of sushi. Instead, we opted for the spicy hamachi.

For our main entrees, we had the option of choosing among donburi (rice dishes for $8.75 to $13.50), soba or udon (noodle dishes from $7.25 to $8.75), sushi ($8 to $12), or sashimi ($17 to $25). The rice and udon selections available were quite ordinary, even mundane, for such a well dressed restaurant. Unfortunately, the sushi selections weren’t much better- it took a few minutes to choose an item, not because they all sounded delectable and appetizing, but because we couldn’t decide which sounded least uninteresting. Many seemed to be California rolls topped with fish; a few others were either crab salad or spicy tuna topped with fish. We settled on the spicy tuna tempura. We couldn’t find another roll that was either different or interesting, so we decided on a simple, unadulterated plate of sashimi.

As we sat drinking our lukewarm tea (not because we had been waiting a long time, but because the tea being served was lukewarm), we overheard the neighboring table complain that one of the items ordered had not yet arrived. At this point, all we could do was cross our fingers and hope for the best. The spicy hamachi arrived first. The presentation was pretty, with red and green peppers contrasting the five pale pink pieces arranged like leaves of a petal around the centered shredded daikon in a puddle of yuzu sauce. However, even my pal Lucky, whose tolerance for spiciness is quite low, did not once reach for the tea to put out any fires in her mouth. Within a couple of minutes, we polished off the average appetizer and started on our roll. Stuffed with tempura battered shrimp, rice and spicy tuna, I was expecting a contrast of textures. Instead, the sauce that was drizzled over the top made the entire roll uniformly soft and mushy. My hopes for a decent roll were further dashed by the fact that it tasted like one homogenous roll- we couldn’t distinguish the spicy tuna from the tempura shrimp.

The one good thing about the place was that the food came out in a timely manner, at least for us. However, at a nearby table, we heard them complain that the kitchen had forgotten one of their dishes. After finishing our spicy tuna tempura roll, our sashimi moriwase came out. Pieces of ahi, hamachi, salmon, hamaguri (clam), and maguro were arranged on a platter served over ice to keep the fish cool. The pieces of fish were of decent quality- firm yet sufficiently soft. However, the sushi chef’s precision with a knife was sorely lacking as the pieces were far from uniform thickness and consistency. Even worse, the hamaguri was surprisingly fishy and did not taste fresh.

Close to forty dollars later and twenty minutes later (that must have been the fastest sushi meal we’d eaten), we were still hungry. Rather than take a chance on ordering another disappointing dish, we went home to eat the leftover chili that we had eaten earlier that day for lunch. I hope that my dining experience will be different from yours, but if I were you, I would spend my ten dollars someplace else.

Ten Restaurant

524 Irving St.

San Francisco, 94122

Open: Mon., Wed.–Fri. 11:30-2:30pm and 5-10pm

Closed Tues.

One star out of five

Theatre Review: Berkeley Rep- Argonautika Sets Sail on Tale of Humor and Adventure

The story of Jason and the Argonauts is a staple in Greek mythology. The fearless leader, aided by his band of testosterone laden men, seeks out the Golden Fleece, encountering lusty sirens, a formidable sea monster, menacing harpies and a fierce dragon along the way. While many retellings portray our protagonists as courageous men with nary a blemish, Mary Zimmerman’s Argonautika, playing at Berkeley Rep’s Rhoda Theatre, paints a more human picture, using a palette filled with deceit, love and betrayal to paint on a canvas of humor and adventure. The result is a complex masterpiece that tells us a bit about mythology and a lot about human nature.

Zimmerman’s Argonautika is a triumph on multiple levels. Using creative yet relatively simple puppets and a talented cast of 14, many playing various roles, the audience is successfully transported to a world of gods and mythical creatures. Once that reality is established, the individual actors do an amazing job of fleshing out the characters, recreating them with distinct personalities with unique quirks and attributes. The fact that the several actors successfully play multiple characters with differing personas is a testament to the high caliber of their ability. One of the most striking examples is Søren Oliver, who plays both the strong yet dense Hercules as well as the conniving antagonist King Aieetes. The characters are diametric opposites, yet Oliver plays both perfectly.

The source material already makes the story a classic, but the nuances woven into this production make it a worthy retelling. For one, this is one of the most human renditions of the tale. The protagonists are portrayed as a ragtag group of competent yet somewhat bumbling he-men who growl and beat their chests. Jason, meanwhile, is their charismatic yet ultimately self-serving leader. We see their blemishes and realize they are human (or at least half-human, half-god). Even the gods are anthropomorphic: Manipulative, nepotistic and meddlesome as they are, they hardly seem the detached entities that watch from above. Instead, they abet their favorite humans through complicit interventions to the harm of others. The most onerous example is Aphrodite and Eros’ role in influencing Medea to betray her father and her countrymen. Somehow we are able to forgive the likable characters and hope they make it home to their families with the Golden Fleece. Despite their flaws and shortcomings, the audience finds itself rooting for them in the face of danger and trouble.

But perhaps the most entertaining aspect of this extremely entertaining play is the adventures and exploits of the Argonauts. It is always curious how one can relay the epic scope of the story in a medium as limited as a play. Zimmerman’s staging and direction keeps the story majestic and sweeping. Even when using miniature scale props, the magnificence and grandeur of the scene is apparent to the audience. Zimmerman shows why she has won numerous accolades, including the 2002 Tony for Best Director.

The humor is yet another layer of this production, keeping the story from becoming too heavy or serious. And still, Zimmerman adds yet another layer by cleverly pointing out a few similarities between our current president’s foray into Iraq and Jason’s quest, which brings him to the unwelcome shores of Colchis.

Human, humorous, exciting and timely, Argonautika is another feather in Berkeley Rep’s exciting 40th anniversary season. Take some time to see it before it closes on December 23.

Originally published: www.ucsf.edu/synapse/articles/2007/Nov/29/argonautika.html

Performance Review: SF Symphony- More Than Meets the Ear

I think of myself as representative of the average classical music listener. I have taken a few music appreciation classes in college. I enjoy hearing live performances by the San Francisco Symphony. I’m familiar with the biggies – Beethoven, Mozart and Bach. But within the past few years, I have made an attempt to expand beyond my musical “comfort zones,” choosing programs featuring composers that I may know by name, but not necessarily by ear. On occasion, this has resulted in some less than satisfying results. But the majority of the time, my curiosity and adventurousness are rewarded: Last week’s all-Shostakovich program is one such example.

To be honest, my prior exposure to Russian composers did not extend far beyond Tchaikovsky and Rachmaninoff. But several factors made me interested in this program in particular. First, I had been told on several occasions that Shostakovich’s 5th Symphony was a must-hear. Also, these performances were being taped for Keeping Score, a national program aimed at making classical music accessible to all people hosted by the symphony’s maestro Michael Tilson Thomas.

The three pieces performed were as varied and storied as the composer himself. The first consisted of three pieces that made up the suite from a ballet entitled The Golden Age. The next was an 11-song cycle From Jewish Folk Poetry, featuring a soprano, a mezzo-soprano and a tenor. The last was the most famous of the three – Symphony No.5 in D minor, Opus 47. Each piece was stunning and lush in its own way. But knowing the historical context in which these pieces were written made them that much more exciting and fascinating because of the added meaning, nuance and character.

In order to get the most out of the performances, it helps to become familiar with the music on different levels. Sometimes that means listening to the music beforehand. However, the pieces are not always readily accessible. Often, reading the program notes about the history surrounding the pieces provides great insight. Doing so in this case was almost integral to really appreciate the music.

Shostakovich wrote the pieces during Stalin’s regime in the USSR. On several occasions, his work was censored and criticized as being against the state. Fearing reprisal, Shostakovich was forced to temper his condemnation, hiding it under a guise of mock admiration and faux nationalism. This is quite evident in music from The Golden Age, which tells the tale of a Soviet soccer team that travels to a Western city.

The thundering beats representing the power of the communist ideology nonetheless provided a rousing piece that was exciting and fun to listen to. Dance of the Black Man and two Soviet Footballers, which was heavy on the percussion instruments, timpani and triangle and included parts for tuba, bassoon and saxophone, was reminiscent of a march at a college football game rather than a ballet.

That Shostakovich even dared to write From Jewish Folk Poetry in 1930s Russia is a testament to his commitment to humanity in the face of an overtly anti-Semitic totalitarian dictatorship. Everyday pain and suffering is Jewish life in Russia was represented in works with names such as Lament for a Dead Infant and A Song of Poverty. The pieces provided snapshots of Jewish life through a Klezmer-influenced lens. Soprano Oksana Dyka and mezzo-soprano Elana Manistina sang with great power and emotion, providing even more depth and substance to the music. Tenor Vsevolod Grisnov, however could not match their vocal clout.

The 5th Symphony was an epic piece, soaring and jubilant, but often interspersed with stretches that seemed uncertain and stunted, particularly at the end of the first movement. The way Shostakovich juxtaposed these two motifs heightened the disparity. It can be interpreted as his attempt to please Stalin while stealthily injecting his veiled venom. Historical context aside, the 5th is also technically interesting because he splits the violins into three sections (typically there are two), and the violas and the cellos into two sections (rather than the usual single section for each). The result is a complex mélange that is expertly handled by the San Francisco Symphony.

The symphony allows not only for the enjoyment of the tried and true, but offers opportunities to sample lesser known composers. Some may scoff at the notion of Shostakovich being lesser known, but that is just proof of my musical naïveté. Fortunately, the symphony provides the opportunity to grow through these types of performances and programs like Keeping Score.

Originally published: www.ucsf.edu/synapse/articles/2007/Dec/6/shostakovich.html