Restaurant Review: On the Bridge- Eating in Engrish

I tried to find the word engrish in the dictionary (actually, it was www.dictionary.com) but, not surprisingly, was unable to. So I went to www.urbandictionary.com and found the following definition: "A form of English characterized by (often word-by-word) translations from a foreign language." An example of engrish can often be found on the paper wrappers of disposable chopsticks used in Asian restaurants: "Please to try your Nice Chinese Food With Chopsticks the traditional and typical of Chinese glorious history and cultural." You get the general idea of the message being conveyed, but it is not really English. It is engrish.

Yoshoku style Japanese food is the culinary equivalent to engrish. Developed in the Meiji era over a hundred years ago, its literal translation means Western food. Having experienced and enjoyed Western food, the chefs of Japan tried to emulate it, resulting in Western food with a Japanese slant. Imagine that — the first attempts at fusion cuisine took place over 100 years ago. Restaurants specializing in yoshoku are quite trendy in Tokyo; quite a few eateries have popped up in Los Angeles and Orange County; though there are far fewer in the Bay Area, one quirky place with a contemporary setting is On The Bridge, aptly named for its location on the pedestrian bridge between the Kinetsu and Kinokuniya buildings in Japantown.

My friend Lucky and I met up with our pals Chofies, Mouse, and Huachai there for dinner. I had heard about the au gratin rice plates with cheese and was curious about it. I mean, how many Asian dishes have cheese in them? We were quickly seated by the hostess at a table situated alongside a wall, the upper half covered with windows and the lower half filled from end to end entirely with Japanese manga (comic books). Across from us anime (Japanese cartoons) was playing on the television placed next to the lucky cats, the ones with the paws in the air waving for good luck. Behind us hung large oversized posters of another popular anime, Neon Genesis. The dŽcor was unique and funky like our waitress Miss Chatterly, who couldn't have been older than 16. For a young kid, she sure had a lot to say. She was like Cliff Claven from Cheers, with all kinds of tidbits and trivia. It was almost as if Miss Chatterly were a standing participant joining us for dinner. But we were getting hungry, and soon we were asking Miss Chatterly about the menu.

It was interesting to find a hamburger-sandwich ($7.85) and fresh jumbo french fries ($2.95) offered at a Japanese restaurant. Come to think of it, I've never seen clam chowder ($2.25) from Japan either. Feeling like something with a hint of Japanese flair, then order the hamburger steak Japanese style ($10.95) served with garlic, daikon radish, mushrooms and teriyaki sauce.

Perusing the other offerings on the extensive menu, they claimed to have over 38 curry dishes and over 42 types of pasta. How the heck can you have that many types of curry? It is a little deceiving: the set-up is kind of like a pizza with the option to add different toppings. Available additions to your curry include, but are not limited to seafood, scallops, shrimp, beef, chicken as well as items such as broccoli, eggplant, tofu, etc. What was impressive, however, is they claim to be the first curry house in San Francisco, when they set up shop in 1992.

The variety of pasta dishes was truly extensive, though. They were grouped into three categories. The first group was Light Pasta ($6.75), spaghetti noodles prepared in a soy sauce and garlic based Japanese sauce and topped with items such as cod fish roe (Mentai Ko Spaghetti), fermented soybeans (Natto), and seasonal Japanese wild vegetables (Sansai). The second category, Japanese Pasta, used a base similar to the first pasta, but had hardier additions like Calamari and Kimchee Spaghetti ($9.25) or Ume and Shiso Spaghetti ($7.95 for Japanese pickled plums, fragrant leaves, and chicken). European pastas filled out the third category, which had your typical white sauce and red sauce spaghetti plates (ranging from 7.50 to 10.50).

But we were there for the sinfully cheesy rice gratin dishes ($7.95 to 9.45), consisting of rice pilaf and bŽchamel sauce, a choice of fillings, and topped with three kinds of cheese baked to a golden brown. Huachai, a ravenous carnivore, was persuaded to get the chicken au gratin. Chofies and Mouse, on the other hand, felt that a vegetable au gratin would suit them better. Lucky decided on the Japanese wild vegetables and chicken au gratin, which is what I would have chosen had she not. Since I knew that I'd be able to sample some of hers, I chose the mushroom au gratin. It was hardy and cheesy. I don't know how I was able to finish the plate, but afterwards I think it stuck in my stomach for three or four days. I was not hungry until the next evening. I think Huachai was somewhat disappointed at the amount of chicken in the plate after Miss Chatterly talked it up. But then again, Huachai is a mean carnivore, and probably even half a chicken wouldn't have been enough for her.

On the Bridge is a kooky place with a style all its own. It is a nice place for a quickie (denoted on the menu) or a pre-movie meal (the AMC Kabuki is just a short walk away). If you don't feel like sushi but want to try some traditional non-traditional Japanese food, meet On the Bridge.

On the Bridge
1581 Webster St.
931-2743

Originally published: http://www.ucsf.edu/synapse/content/rest/onthebridge.html