farmerbrown is somewhat of a dichotomous restaurant in several senses. One simple example is the name. One might expect a countryside setting with a rustic theme consistent with cows, acres of grassland and tractors. Instead what you get is a chic restaurant far from the countryside in the Tenderloin district. Something of an oasis in a dirty concrete desert, its fashionable interior consists of walls covered in corrugated tin and copper tables.
Another contrast is its location. The Tenderloin is not exactly known for having wealthy locals. Yet the prices of the entrees easily range from $15 to $25. I almost felt guilty eating here when dozens of people in and around the place were begging for spare change.
But despite the disparity, there is a decent reason for the incongruity. According to chef-owner Jay Foster, farmerbrown supports local African-American farmers through an organization called Mo’ Better Food. As a result, much of meat and produce used is organic, biodynamic and sustainably raised foods whenever possible.
farmerbrown focuses on southern comfort foods like chicken and dumplings ($14.50), crispy cornmeal catfish ($16.50) and Po’ Boys (price varies- the day we went it was $16.50) with sides such as sautéed collards, candied yams and angel biscuits. Food for the masses, these offerings are something that any Joe-off-the-street would enjoy. Without much time needed to decide, my wife Lucky chose the Fulton Valley Fried Chicken ($16.50) and I went with the Gumbo ($11). Within minutes, we were served four complimentary bite-sized jalapeno muffins with sweet butter. These tasty little morsels had a hint of spiciness without overpowering the inherent sweetness. Slathered with butter, we polished them off without delay. Fortunately the service was quick and our meals quickly followed. Perhaps this was because we ate dinner at 5:30, before the crowds began to really build.
Lucky’s plate had three pieces of chicken — a breast, a wing and a thigh — with a side of macaroni and cheese and southern greens. The fried chicken was perhaps the best we have had in San Francisco. A paper thin coating of batter gave the pieces a delicious crunch without being overly heavy or greasy; the meat underneath, by contrast, was tender and juicy. When dipped in the tangy Louisiana style homemade hot sauce at the table, it was what most fried chicken aspired to be. The mac and cheese was somewhat different from most — not only was the macaroni bathed in a cheese sauce, it was also topped with shredded Tillamook cheese which gave it an added sharpness. With so many strong flavors on the plate, the subtle southern greens were a welcome side dish.
My gumbo, on the other hand, was quite decent, but it did not reach the heights of the fried chicken. Larger and more expensive than an appetizer but smaller and less expensive than an entrée, it fell into a grey zone that would have left me hungry had I not devoured half of Lucky’s plate. The gumbo was generously dotted with Andouille sausage and chicken, but halfway through I began to get tired of it as the depth of flavors were not as complex or interesting as I would have expected. I tried to rescue it with a little of the homemade hot sauce. In the end, I think part of my disinterest was a result of the fried chicken’s overshadowing the gumbo.
farmerbrown is a restaurant worth a repeat visit, if not for another serving of fried chicken, then perhaps to sample some of the other dishes they offer. They also have an extensive bar offering interesting cocktails like mango margarita, red pear sidecar (pear infused brandy, triple sec and lemon juice) and ginger rum punch. While the prices are more expensive than similar fare at other restaurants, I’m comforted by the idea that local farmers do benefit.
farmerbrown
25 Mason St. @ Market
Monday through Sunday 5pm to 12am
(415) 409-FARM
www.farmerbrownsf.com
Originally published: http://www.ucsf.edu/synapse/content/2007/04/12/farmerbrown.html
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