Thanks to its illustrious past as a federal penitentiary from 1859 to 1934, Alcatraz has become an iconic San Francisco institution that has been capturing the imagination of all, residents and visitors alike, for decades. Romanticized in films such as The Rock, Escape from Alcatraz, and even So I Married an Axe Murderer, it has housed the likes of criminals such as Al Capone and Richard “Birdman” Stroud. But to get a better appreciation of the appeal and horror of the island, a trip to The Rock is in order.
Wandering the cell house with inmates and security guards recounting tales in crisp digital audio provided by MP3 players was often an eerie experience. With a little imagination, I was transported back in time and into the psyches of those who lived on Alcatraz. The solitude of the isolation cells on D-Block sent a chill up my spine as I stepped into the same cramped cells that held the worst offenders. The harrowing tales of the attempted breakouts by inmates is yet another part of the audio tour which I found engrossing. As the narrator recounts the events that transpired, the listener is guided through the different parts of the cell house where they actually took place. The audio tour is a significant part, but it is only one of several portions of the Alcatraz experience.
“We Hold the Rock” is another portion of the tour to check out. This video exhibit focuses on the lesser known but equally important occupation of Alcatraz by American Indians. Alcatraz’s role in American Indian history is a dichotomy: Its role as a military prison between 1859 and 1934 was a symbol of captivity; but its occupation by American Indian from 1969 -1971 was demonstrative of independence. Indian graffiti, for lack of a better term, and other reminders can be found throughout the island.
The stunning views of the San Francisco skyline afforded by Alcatraz is just icing on the cake. But to the incarcerated, it was salt in their wounds- a daily reminder of how close, yet how far away they were from civilization. Although it was closed at the time of my visit, the Agave Trail is said to offer a walk “along rocky cliffs, past colonies of western gull nests, and through areas overgrown with exotic flowers and trees.” It opens between October and February only; it is closed the rest of the year to protect nesting birds.
Those who have been to Alcatraz years ago may be interested in re-visiting since the Golden Gate National Parks Conservancy, which helps to maintain the island, injected $3.7 million in renovations which were finalized earlier this year. Besides structural support, new interior exhibits and furnishings were added to recreate an atmosphere more akin to what the prisoners experienced. The new museum store is also improved- in addition to selling all types of memorabilia, there are also interpretive displays which house shivs (makeshift knives), weapons used by the guards and even the tools used by inmates in their escape scheme . Perhaps the most interesting part of the store, though, is the opportunity to speak with someone whose history is intertwined with the island. An ex-convict, a security guard or a family member who lived on the island is always on hand to tell a story or to answer any questions.
The trip all begins on Pier 33, where ferries headed for Alcatraz leave every 30 minutes starting at 9:00am. Service is provided through Alcatraz Cruises, the only authorized concessioner to the island (www.alcatraztours.com). Day tours start at $24.50, though there is an option to take the tour without the audio portion for $16.50. But I would not recommend the latter. There is also an interesting night tour for $31.50 that includes a guided tour, but you are not free to roam the grounds at your leisure. It is recommended to buy your tickets a few days in advance, as tickets may be hard to come by, particularly on the weekends.
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