While my wife Lucky was pregnant, she didn’t have any major cravings. However, there were certain foods she avoided because of the possible effects that it could have on the developing fetus. Sushi was taboo. Coffee was crossed off the list. Hot dogs were a no-no. It seemed like all the good stuff was off limits. So when our baby was finally born, Lucky hit up all her favorite places. There was only one problem — we didn’t really have a favorite hot dog place. That came to an end when we discovered Underdog, a little hot dog shop on Irving Street that is great for take out, though they do have a few seats indoors.
Billed as an organic sausage joint, I was a bit hesitant about what their offerings would taste like. Would this be just as unsatisfying as sugar-free candy, fat-free bacon or alcohol-free beer? I mean, come on, isn’t it usually the bad stuff that makes something taste so delicious? But the menu’s interesting assortment of sausages, coupled with our curiosity as to what organic hot dogs tasted like, won out. The menu offers organic meat sausages as well as a smaller assortment of vegetarian sausages. There is a mix of traditional favorites: Bratwurst, a German pork sausage; their eponymous Underdog, a simple grass-fed beef hotdog; and Chicken-Apple, a chicken sausage made slightly sweet by the addition of apple pieces. There are also a handful of vegetarian sausages made from tofu, including a Veggie Beer Bratwurst made with Full Sail Amber Ale; and veggie versions of a classic hot dog, an Italian, and a Kielbasa.
Lucky and I opted for a few of the less conventional ones. Lucky’s first choice was the Roasted Garlic and Herb. Because the garlic was roasted, it was potent but not overpowering, giving just the right kick to the pork sausage. Her second dog was a Spinach-Feta, a chicken and turkey sausage made with fresh spinach and feta cheese. Feta is typically a strong cheese whose flavor has a tendency to overpower. But here the flavor and texture of the spinach was distinct while the feta cheese was surprisingly muted. I went with a few choices with bolder tastes. I decided on the Andouille, a spicy chicken and turkey sausage seasoned with Cajun spices. I also tried the Sweet Italian, a zesty Italian sausage brimming with delicious spices like fennel and basil. We also shared a basket of Tater-Tots, a delicious baked treat made from organic Russet potatoes. Don’t forget the tater-tots. That would be like getting a burger without fries!
But what does a claim of being organic mean? I sat down with Max Leung, co-owner with Rizza Punvalan, to ask him what it meant for their food to be organic. All animals used in the sausages are from small family-run certified organic farms which never feed their animals antibiotics or hormones. All herbs and seasonings used in the sausages are organic. And of course, the buns, either wheat or white, are organic as well. In addition to the sausages, none of the restaurant’s products contain GMOs (genetically modified organisms), nitrates, or any artificial preservatives, sweeteners, or flavors.
I asked him how can the consumer be assured that the pieces of meat used are quality cuts and not left-over scraps. His response was that the sausages came from reputable sources that use quality meat. He could not guarantee that each sausage was from USDA prime pieces, but was not worried about the quality coming from these conscientious farms. He then brought up a good point: “I’m Asian, and in our culture we eat pretty much all parts of the animal. Besides, I feel more comfortable eating any part of an organically raised animal than I would be about eating those other hot dogs with all those fillers, chemicals, and preservatives, you know what I’m saying?”
The proof is in the dog. You can taste the difference between these sausages and “the rest.” These are firm, somewhat dense sausages with a minimal amount of grease, unlike the gritty or rubbery texture of those made with fillers. You can actually tell you’re eating meat. The flavor of the meat is hearty and the spices used are robust. They were so delicious on their own that I was hesitant to top them with the organic condiments available — stoneground mustard, horseradish mustard, relish, sauerkraut, ketchup and habañero hot sauce.
We then talked about the price of eating organic. $3.89 for a hot dog may not seem cheap, but he raised another important point: Some people pay big dollars for fancy cars and stylish clothes. But what’s more important than eating healthy foods? Sure organics are more expensive, but it’s worth it to put in the best prepared foods into your body. Isn’t your health more important than the material things in life? Leung practices what he preaches, apparent in his modest attire — wearing old converse shoes, sweat pants and a simple T-shirt.
This way of eating is in tune with the restaurant’s aim to make the least negative impact on the planet possible. All packaging, supplies and disposable wares are made from recycled paper and/or biodegradable products made from renewable and sustainable resources, according to the signs on the wall. Very little garbage is produced, as most of the products are compostable or recyclable.
A green restaurant serving organic food at reasonable prices, it really is a perfect mix. On top of that, Punvalan and Leung are extremely friendly people who will take time to chat with you while between bites of hot dogs and tater tots. I’ll definitely be back to try their other hot dogs as well as their other organic offerings.
1634 Irving St.
415- 665-8881
Open 7 days a week, 11:30a to 9p
Originally published: http://www.ucsf.edu/synapse/content/2007/05/31/underdog.html
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