Restaurant Review: Coco 500- Cuckoo For Coco 500

It all started several weeks ago when my friend Bling text-messaged me with an urgent request: "Need to know of a nice restaurant for a friend." Apparently, Bling's friend was coming from out of town. This friend wanted to take his girlfriend out to a nice restaurant. And so, when I asked my pal Lucky if she had any suggestions, her eyes lit up, "Are we going somewhere special?" Oops… I know Bling didn't mean to get me into trouble. Soon I was looking for restaurants for not only Bling's friend, but for Lucky and myself. During my recent search, I stumbled upon Coco 500, one of the hottest new restaurants to open in 2005. Was it still a shining star, or was it a supernova that had already burnt out?

If there is a correlation between "hot" factor and difficulty in getting a reservation for two on a Wednesday evening, then this place is still blazing. When I called for reservations that day at 3 p.m., I was told they were booked until 8:30, unless I could eat before 5:30 and finish before 7. Fortunately, Lucky and I were headed for a flight out that night, so the 5:30 reservation worked perfectly. However, when we got there, I was admittedly underwhelmed by the fact that there were only two other patrons. I was growing skeptical of how deserving it was of the rave reviews I had heard. I prepared myself for an over-hyped dining experience. What we got, though, was one of the most delicious, reasonably priced meals Lucky and I have shared so far.

The menu is divided into six sections. From the small starts section, we opted for two selections, the first being the four pieces of silky, thinly sliced coriander crusted seared ahi ($8). The tiny slivers of lemon rind atop the ahi added a tartness whose presence was powerful enough to be noticed but subtle enough not to overwhelm the fish. The coriander seed crust added a contrasting crunchy texture and an earthy taste that highlighted the fish.

The second appetizer we ordered was the duck liver terrine ($6). When I suggested the terrine to Lucky, she gave me a quizzical look, as I am not a big fan of liver. In fact, I have only enjoyed liver one time in my life (foie gras from a French restaurant). But the chef's preparation actually allowed me to enjoy liver for the second time ever. A dense piece — aptly described by Lucky as "meatloafy" — was served with a side of mustard and accompanied by pickled vegetables (red onions, carrot, pepper, pickles) and crostini. The terrine, which could either be spread over crostini or eaten with pickled vegetables, was not in the least bit chalky like most preparations. Instead, it was smooth with a lightly smoky flavor. There was still the distinct hint of liver aftertaste that disappeared when eaten with the sour accompaniments — either mustard or vegetables.

From the leaf section, we ordered the rocket and manila mango ($14). Velvety mango was served alongside creamy avocado and topped with minutely diced ginger, whole toasted hazelnuts and oil. The ginger added a slightly spicy undertone while the hazelnuts gave it a nice crunch. On either side was a tangle of arugula topped with shrimp. The bitter arugula, usually my last choice for leafs in a lettuce, complemented the sweet fruits perfectly. The shrimp was firm and tender, adding a nicely contrasting texture to the mango and avocado. Unfortunately, it was difficult salad to eat together. But when you are able to get a little of each ingredient in each bite, it is a pleasure for the tongue, both in taste and texture.

Afraid that we would be ordering too much food, we skipped the a la plancha section, from which the calamari with sweet szegedi chilies and spring garlic ($10) came, instead opting for the beef cheek ($15) from the wood oven section. For the second time that evening, Lucky shot me a "are you kidding?" look when I ordered it, but it turned out to be our favorite dish of the night. A braised piece of cheek about the size of a fist was rolled in mustard and coated with a cornmeal crust before being roasted in the oven. The result was a tender cut that melts in the mouth. The whipped horseradish, whose creamy consistency allowed for control over the amount used, was not overly spicy. The side of watercress was light and refreshing, perfectly balancing the cheek.

The last section from which we ordered, not including dessert, was California dirt. We had trouble deciding between the potato gratin ($5), made with Yukon gold potatoes and gruyere cheese; and calzotes ($5). The waiter said that they were spring onions caramelized in the same fashion as that found at festivals in Spain. This side dish was a little too soft and mushy with not much taste, the only disappointment of the evening.

After five dishes, we were pleasantly satisfied without being overly stuffed. It wasn't that the portions were stingy; rather, the meal was light and satisfying. Well presented and expertly prepared, these elegant yet simple dishes made the evening thoroughly enjoyable. The vacherin ($8.50) from the dessert menu made the evening unbelievable: a scoop of coffee ice cream served over a crunchy Swiss meringue and topped with candied almonds and swimming in crème anglaise and bittersweet chocolate sauce. Delicious without being overly sweet, this surprisingly light dessert was the crowning moment of the evening.

By 6 p.m., every seat in the place was taken. If you want to try some of the freshest new food in San Francisco, make an advanced reservation or have an early dinner.

Coco 500
500 Brannan St.
543-2222

Originally published: http://www.ucsf.edu/synapse/content/2006/04/13/500.html