Thursday, May 1, 2008

Restaurant Review: Mexico DF- Mexican Fare at a Reasonable Price

There are three types of food that I usually scoff at when I see a fancy restaurant – Chinese, Vietnamese and Mexican. Perhaps it’s because there are so many great restaurants that serve these cuisines at such inexpensive prices that I feel no need to go to an upscale version. So when my cousin took my wife Lucky and me to Mexico DF (abbreviation for Distrito Federal), I was expecting mediocre Mexican at overinflated prices. Fortunately, I was overwhelmed by the food and underwhelmed by the price.

Located in the Embarcadero, Mexico DF is surrounded by expensive restaurants such as Boulevard, Ozumo and Shanghai 1930. Like its neighbors, this restaurant’s décor is definitely more inviting for a dine-in experience than hole-in-the-wall burrito shops you’d find in the Mission. Don’t get me wrong, the Mission has some of the best Mexican food, but I’d rather bring it home than eat it there. At Mexico DF, the opposite is true (though to go is an option for lunch on weekdays). Paintings by Mexican artists hang in the dining area. The wood accents make the room feel warm while the high ceilings give a sense of space and expansiveness. Even the unique wooden plates at the table are unique and beautiful pieces.

Strangely, as my appreciation for the décor increased, my expectations of the food decreased proportionally.

Fortunately I was more at ease when they brought out sample shots of the aguas frescas of the day – a refreshing and delicious drink made from fresh pineapple juice – to accompany the arrival of the menus. The evening’s menu was split into seven parts – Guacamoles, Ceviches y Crudos (seafood), Sopas y Ensaladas (soups and salads), Tacos, Botanas y Antojitos (snacks and appetizers), Platos Fuertas (main courses) and Al Lado (sides). While the prices were definitely higher than what you’d find at your local taco shop, they weren’t outrageous or ridiculous. Aside from the Platos Fuertas, most of the offerings were in the $8 to $15 range. I relaxed a little and was ready to give the place a chance to prove itself. My cousin opted for the pound of carnitas ($26) while Lucky went with the Chuleta tacos (3 for $10) and I opted for the Huarache ($10). We also shared the Classico guacamole ($9).

The friendly and attentive wait staff soon returned with the chips and guacamole, made with lime, cilantro and Serrano chile. The fresh chips and guacamole was rather tasty, especially with the addition of salsa. Perhaps the guacamole could have use a little more acidity, but it was minor quibble. It was not long at all before our dinners were ready. My cousin received his huge portion of carnitas with a side of guacamole, pickled onions, salsa and handmade corn tortillas. He gave us some of his carnitas while we waited for our dishes. The pieces of slow-cooked port were so tender and delicious that both Lucky and I wished we had ordered the carnitas ourselves. I have to say this was perhaps the best carnitas I have had.

In comparison the huge carnitas plate, Lucky’s taco plate was simple – three handmade corn tortillas held an ample amount of pork loin, served with a side of mildly spicy chile de arbol salsa. Lucky set one of her tacos on my plate and I devoured it between grunts of satisfaction. The grilled pork was lean and boldly flavored. Sure they came out to about $3.33 each, but the high-grade quality of the meat was unmistakable – not one morsel of fatty, unchewable pork in there.
My huarache – a handmade corn masa “sandal” the thickness of pita bread (but softer, chewier, less flaky and made of corn) covered with black refried beans and grilled short ribs, topped with queso, cilantro and onions – did not disappoint.

The ingredients went together so well that I wondered why short rib huaraches were typical fare at most Mexican restaurants. Those with larger appetites may find it too small to be filling, but with the chips and guacamole and small helpings from my cousin and Lucky, I was too full to try any of their desserts (I hear the burnt caramel flan is quite delicious).

And so a mea culpa to upscale Mexican dining is in order. Mexico DF is proof that you don’t have to go to a dive with a questionable health code record to get delicious authentic Mexican food. Mexico DF, located not too far from Mission Bay at Steuart St, offers a decidedly enjoyable dining atmosphere at reasonable prices. Perhaps I will have to readjust my attitude toward upscale Chinese and Vietnamese food as well.

Mexico DF
139 Steuart St.
415-808-1048
www.mex-df.com

Originally published: www.ucsf.edu/synapse/articles/2008/May/1/mexicodf.html

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